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Understand sewing thread use sewing thread well Sewin […]
Understand sewing thread use sewing thread well
Sewing thread is the main thread material, used to sew various clothing materials, and has both practical and decorative functions. The quality of sewing thread not only affects sewing efficiency and processing cost, but also affects the appearance quality of finished garments.
Classification and characteristics of sewing thread
Sewing threads for clothing are usually divided into three categories: natural fiber sewing threads, synthetic fiber sewing threads and mixed sewing threads.
1, natural fiber sewing thread
A. Cotton sewing thread: a sewing thread made from cotton fiber through processes such as bleaching, sizing and waxing. Cotton sewing thread can be divided into non-light (or soft thread), silk light and wax light.
Cotton sewing thread has high strength and good heat resistance. It is suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing. It is mainly used for sewing cotton fabrics, leather and high-temperature ironed clothes. The disadvantage is poor elasticity and wear resistance.
b. Silk thread: long silk thread or spun silk thread made of natural silk, with excellent luster, its strength, elasticity and wear resistance are better than cotton thread, suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, high-end woolen clothing, fur And leather clothing, etc.
2, synthetic fiber sewing thread
A. Polyester sewing thread: This is the most widely used sewing thread, made of polyester filament or short fiber. Polyester sewing thread has the characteristics of high strength, good elasticity, wear resistance, low shrinkage rate and good chemical stability. It is mainly used for sewing denim, sportswear, leather products, wool and military uniforms. It should be noted here that the polyester China Wholesale Blanket Yarn supplierssuture has a low melting point and is easy to melt during high-speed sewing, which can block the needle hole and cause the suture to break. Therefore, a suitable needle must be selected.
B. Nylon sewing thread: Nylon sewing thread is made of pure nylon multifilament, divided into three types: filament thread, short fiber thread and elastic deformation thread. At present, the main variety is nylon filament thread. It has the advantages of large elongation and good elasticity, and its stretched length at the moment of breaking is three times higher than that of cotton thread of the same specification, so it is suitable for sewing chemical fiber, woolen cloth, leather and elastic clothing. The big advantage of nylon sewing thread lies in its transparency. Because this thread is transparent and has good color properties, it reduces the difficulty of sewing and wiring and has a broad development prospect. However, the rigidity of the transparent thread on the market is too large, the strength is too low, the stitches are easy to float on the surface of the fabric, and the sewing speed cannot be too high. At present, this type of thread is mainly used for decals, skewers and other parts that are not easily subjected to force.
C, vinylon sewing thread: made of vinylon fiber, with high strength and stable stitches, it is mainly used to sew thick canvas, furniture cloth, labor protection products, etc.
D, acrylic sewing thread: made of acrylic fiber, mainly used as decorative thread and embroidery thread, the yarn twist is low, and the dyeing is bright.
3, mixed sewing thread
A. Polyester/cotton sewing thread: It is made of 65% polyester and 35% cotton blend, which has the advantages of both polyester and cotton. Polyester/cotton sewing thread can not only guarantee the requirements of strength, wear resistance, and shrinkage rate, but also overcome the shortcomings of polyester's heat resistance. It is suitable for high-speed sewing and can be used for all kinds of cotton, polyester/cotton and other clothing.
B. Core-spun sewing thread: a sewing thread made of filaments as the core and covered with natural fibers. The strength of core-spun sewing thread depends on the core thread, and the wear resistance and heat resistance depend on the outer yarn. Therefore, the core-spun sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing and garments that require high sewing stability.
Principles to follow when using sewing thread well
The comprehensive index for evaluating the quality of sewing thread is sewability.
Sewingability means the ability of the sewing thread to form a good stitch smoothly and maintain certain mechanical properties in the stitch under specified conditions. While ensuring the seamability, the sewing thread also needs to be applied correctly. To achieve this, the following principles should be followed:
(1) Compatible with fabric characteristics
The sewing thread and the fabric are made of the same or similar raw materials to ensure the uniformity of shrinkage, heat resistance, abrasion resistance, durability, etc., and avoid the difference between the thread and the fabric to cause appearance shrinkage.
(2) consistent with the type of clothing
For special-purpose clothing, sewing threads with special functions should be considered. For example, elastic sewing threads should be used for stretch clothing, and sewing threads that have been heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof should be used for fire-fighting clothing.
(3) Coordinate with the stitch shape
The stitches used in different parts of the garment are different, and the sewing thread should be changed accordingly. If the overlock stitch needs to use bulky or deformed thread, the double-stitch stitch should choose the thread with large extensibility, and the crotch stitch and shoulder stitch should be firm , And the buttonhole line needs to be durable